Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Fuel Management Systems
  2. TAB Performance Exhaust
  3. Shipping
  4. Warranty
Fuel Management Systems

Q: Do I need a fuel management system, if I'm only getting slip-ons? 

A: Anytime you change the exhaust system on your bike you're changing the back pressure to your engine which in turn affects your Air / Fuel Ratio or A/F causing your bike to run either rich (too much fuel) or lean (not enough fuel). If your bike is carbureted you'll need to rejet your carburetor. This should be done by a professional shop such as your Harley-Davidson Dealership. If your bike is fuel injected you'll need a fuel management system to overide your factory map settings.

Q: My bike has O2 sensors do I still need a fuel management system?

A: If your bike has O2 sensors then it does have some ability to make adjustments, but the factory setup was really only designed to adjust for minor changes such as differences in elevation or air temperature, not for major changes such as aftermarket exhaust. 

Q: Which fuel management system would be best for my bike?

A: This varies depending on what exactly you're looking to do. Ultimately we want to help you make the right choice for you even if that means buying someone elses product so we've put together a Pros / Cons list for our different fuel management systems as well as some of our recommended competitors below:


TAB Auto Tuner:

Pros:

1.)    Has Dynamic mapping which gives you a richer mixture when you get on the throttle to give you power and a leaner mixture when you’re cruising at a constant speed to give you fuel economy.

2.)    No dyno work needed.

3.)    Automatically adjusts for most changes including altitude, air temperature, most exhaust changes, air intake changes, etc.

Cons:

1.)    It utilizes your factory O2 sensors which are a low band sensor, and although it does give you a broader range of adjustment than factory (+/- 25% ECM settings) it does not give you the range for adjustment that a system with high band O2 sensor replacements would. That being said unless you are planning to run Non-Baffled pipes with several other modifications you should be fine with this system and you’ll save yourself a significant amount of money over a wide band system.


TAB Fuel Manager:

Pros:

1.)    Comes pre-loaded with the maps you’ll need to run any set of TAB Performance pipes on your bike, so no dyno work needed.

2.)    Allows for manual adjustments to the maps for people riding at different altitudes or other varying conditions

3.)    Can be tuned for almost any amount of modification.

4.)    Least expensive option.

Cons:

1.)    Has only a static map tuned for performance so you will lose some fuel economy.

2.)    Will not self adjust given changes in conditions such as altitude, so adjustments must be made manually.

 

H-D Race Tuner:

 Pros:

1.)    Most but not all dealerships will let keep your warranty even if you go with a non-Harley fuel management system, but they are a lot more likely to let you keep your warranty if you're using their tuner. You should check with your dealership on their warranty policy before making any decisions.

Cons:

1.)    The Race Tuner requires your bike to be put on a  dyno in order to properly tune it.

2.) It varies from dealership to dealership but on average you’ll be looking at somewhere between $800-$1,200 for parts, labor, and dyno time.

2.)    After the unit has been mapped it is not possible to make any adjustment to the device even manually. If you wanted to make any modifications to the bike later on or wanted to ride at a different altitude you’d have to take the bike in again to have it re-mapped on the dyno.

 

DynaTek Power Commander V with wide Band Auto Tuning add on:

Pros:

1.)    You can buy an auto tuning add on to the PC V that has wide band O2 sensors that will be able to adjust for pretty much anything you do to your bike.

2.)    Otherwise it has the same benefits as the TAB Performance Auto Tuner.

Cons:

It is very expensive as you have to get both the PC V and the auto tuning addition in order to get it to be an auto tuning device. All together it’s around $800. 

 

TAB Performance Auto Tuner

Q: Can I install the Auto Tuner myself?

A: The TAB Performance Auto Tuner is designed to be installed at home with only a few simple tools and comes with detailed installation instructions including colored pictures as well as a link to a YouTube installation video. We tell people if you can put together a gas grill you can probably install our Auto Tuner.

Q: What do I do if my motorcycle does not start after installing the Auto Tuner?

A: The Auto Tuner plugs into the crank position sensor. If this signal is not making a good connection, the motorcycle will not start. Inspect the crank position sensor plug to make sure the pins are straight and not pushed out of the plug.

Q: Why is the LED light on my Auto Tuner not coming on?

A: Check your power and ground connection on the harness to make sure it is connected properly at the data link plug and the battery terminal.

Q: What does it mean if my LED light on my Auto Tuner is not changing to green?

A: When your light is not changing to green something may not be hooked up properly. After 2 minutes of running, the module will blink a code. 2 red blinks and a pause means there is no engine speed detected, check your crank position sensor plugs and make sure there is a good connection. 3 red blinks and a pause means there is no 02 sensor detected, check your 02 sensor plugs and make sure you have a good connection.

Q: I have a 08-09 Throttle by Wire Harley Davidson Touring Model, under hard acceleration I am losing all throttle control. How do I fix this issue?

A: Harley Davidson has equipped all Throttle by Wire Motorcycles with a safety feature; it is called Limp Home Mode. If there is a loss of voltage to the throttle body actuator this will cause the Limp Home Mode to occur. Always make sure that all connections are good and battery terminals are tight. If this does happen, you can pull over and cycle the key switch 4 times and it will reset the throttle body actuator. When you get to your destination go through and double check all your connections are good and tight. Also, check to see if you have any trouble codes.

Q: I have a 08-09 Throttle by Wire Harley Davidson Touring Model and after installing the Auto Tuner I have lost all throttle response at start up. How do I fix this issue?

A: Double check that both the power wires and the ground wire are giving power to the module. (the ground is from the throttle body actuator plug).

Q: I keep losing throttle response on my 08-09 throttle by wire, how do I fix this issue?

A: We have found that on pin 2 and pin 4 at your throttle body actuator that these pins have a tendency to corrode. Harley Davidson has corrected this problem from occurring in 2010!

Q: What is the data link plug and where is it?

A: The data link plug is what Harley Davidson uses to hook up their scanalizer to read trouble codes. On most Harley Davidson models the data link plug is located beside the factory ECU. On earlier Touring Models your ECU is located on the exhaust side under the side cover, early model V-Rods are under the battery. All other models, ECU is under the seat. On the 08-09 TBW Touring Models ECU is under the seat and the data link plug is located under the left side cover, under fuse panel.

Q: How do I find the grey wire in the data link plug?

A: When you find the data link plug, pull back the black tubing and underneath the tubing you will see wires, take the posi-tap (red and grey color) we have provided and tap into the grey wire, then tap the other end onto the red wire. 

Q: How do I bypass the Auto Tuner and go back to stock?

A: At the throttle position sensor on your bike, unplug the Auto Tuner harness from the stock Harley-Davidson plug and re-plug the stock throttle position sensor plug back into the throttle position sensor. Your bike is now running on its original Delphi settings.

Q: After installing the Auto Tuner how can I tell if the air/fuel ratio is correct?

A: For the most part you can tell by how your bike is running if it's running smooth with no backfiring and your engine temperature isn't running hotter than normal then your Auto Tuner is functioning properly. You can also remove and look at your spark plugs; the porcelain should be a light tan or a dirty white color.

Q: What if I am having discoloration on my spark plugs?

A:  If you are having discoloration on your spark plugs, install a new set of spark plugs and run the bike for a few miles and recheck the plugs to see what the plugs look like. The spark plugs should be a light tan or a dirty white color, if the spark plugs are a different color your bike may not be running at the proper A/F ratio.

Q: Why am I having a high idle on my motorcycle?

A: On some Harley Davidson models this will occur, we have added a secondary power wire to our harnesses that corrects this issue. If this problem still occurs, plug your throttle position sensor back to stock. When you plug your Throttle Position Sensor back to stock you are completely by passing the Auto Tuner,  if it continues to idle high then you may be having problems with your bike and you will need to take your bike to a local Harley-Davidson dealer to have them check it out.

Q:  Why do I have two power wires on my harness?

A: This is so the Auto Tuner will power up within the milliseconds that it needs to work properly.

Q: Why, after installing the Auto Tuner, am I having deceleration popping and sputtering?

A: The Auto Tuner relies on the 02 sensor(s) to get its readings. If there is any exhaust leaks or the 02 sensor(s) have been removed and have not been properly tightened the Auto Tuner will think that the motorcycle is running lean and add fuel, this can cause poor fuel mileage and deceleration popping and sputtering.

Q: My check engine light is popping up randomly, how do I fix this issue?

A: Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor and look at the pins, make sure there is not a film covering them also make sure the pins are straight. 

Q: Why is my check engine light coming on and not going off?

A: This means that your bike is telling you that you have a trouble code; you can go into
the speedometer and pull the codes out. Below is the procedure of pulling the codes out
of the speedometer.

1. Turn ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2. Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3. Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4. Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu “PSSPt” with the first P flashing.
5. Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module,‘Carbureted’)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = Speedometer
T = Tachometer

6. To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the work “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist
7. Record the codes.
8. If DTC’s are not to be cleared, press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button (longer than 5 seconds) until ‘clear’ comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9. Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10. Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

 Below is the check engine code reference list:

B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM

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AFR - Air Fuel Ratio

ATS - Air Temperature Sensor

BAS - Bank Angle Sensor

CCM - Cruise Control Module

CKP - Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an AC signal which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed. Home position established by taking readings off the 22 teeth on the alternator rotor.

DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Codes

 

TAB Performance Fuel Manager

 Q: Can I install the Fuel Manager myself?

A: The TAB Performance Fuel Manager is designed to be installed at home with only a few simple tools and comes with detailed installation instructions including colored pictures. We tell people if you can put together a gas grill you can probably install our Fuel Manager.

Q: I get black smoke when I first start my bike but it goes away after it warms up. Is that normal?

A: When you first start your bike there should be some black smoke that comes out of the pipes, especially when revving the engine. Once the bike warms up then the smoke should go away. This mode comes from the factory and is called a "cold start" mode which basically does the same thing as a choke. If the bike continues to smoke after warm-up and there is excess soot buildup in the pipes then it possibly is running a little too rich and you should make a tuning adjustment.

Q: I need to make a fine-tuning adjustment to my Fuel Manager how do I do this?

A: The way the 3 tuning pots (Low, Mid, and High) are set up is that each one controls the air/fuel mixture for a certain rpm range. The low dial controls 0-3,000 rpms, the mid dial controls 3,000-6,000 rpms, and the high controls 6,000-9,000 rpms. Basically each pot/dial can either add fuel or take away fuel within these rpm ranges. You want to try to pinpoint where you feel the bike is running rich or lean and then focus on the tuning dial that controls that range. For example if the bike had a stumble around 5,000 rpms then you would want to work on the "mid" tuning dial and either add or deduct some fuel. If you are not sure which to do then start by adding fuel and if the bike runs worse then go in the opposite direction and deduct fuel instead.

Each tuning dial is set at the factory to 12 O'Clock or straight up and down and this is a zero setting or in other words no fuel added and no fuel deducted. If we want to add fuel then you would turn the dial clockwise. If you want to take away fuel or "lean" the mixture out then you will turn it counter clockwise. You will want to make small incremental steps and start by turning the pot/dial counter clockwise to about 10 or 11 O'Clock. FYI...the most that you can adjust the fuel is (+) or (-) 20%. So in other words you have the ability to add as much as 20% fuel or take away as much as 20% fuel on any of the dials/pots. After making a small 5% adjustment (1 tick mark) take the bike for a ride and see how it feels. Most bikes only need fuel added or subtracted within a small rpm range. If you make an adjustment and it actually makes the problem worse instead of better, just remember to take it back to the place where you started, 12 O'clock. We usually adjust them to the point of going just a little too far and then turn it back slightly to that perfect place.

Q: Which Map setting should my Fuel Manager be set to.

A: Below is a list of what bike and set of pipes each map corresponds to for each of the Fuel Manager Units.

  1. Fuel Manager for 2002-2007 V-Rods 118-1001 
    • Map #1: Any VRSCA, VRSCB, VRSCAW or VRSCSE with turn outs 111-1040
    • Map #2: Any VRSCA, VRSCB, VRSCAW or VRSCSE with non-baffled slash cuts 111-1020
    • Map #3: Any VRSCA, VRSCB, VRSCAW or VRSCSE with rolled end 111-1010
    • Map #4: Any VRSCA, VRSCB, VRSCAW or VRSCSE with baffled slash cuts 111-1220
    • Map #5: No longer used - pipe style discontinued.
    • Map #6: Any Night Rod, Street Rod, or Night Rod Special with non-baffled turn outs 111-2040
    • Map #7: Any Night Rod, Street Rod, or Night Rod Special with non-baffled slash cuts 111-2020
    • Map #8: Any Night Rod, Street Rod, or Night Rod Special with non-baffled rolled end 111-2010
    • Map #9: Any Night Rod, Street Rod, or Night Rod Special with any baffled style 111-2220, 111-2240, 111-2210.
    • Map #10: Factory Settings - Switching your Fuel Manager to Map #10 by passes the Fuel Manager.
  2. Fuel Manager for 2008-2011 V-Rods 118-1003
    • Map #1: Any VRSCAW with any non-baffled exhaust 111-1040, 111-1020, 111-1010
    • Map #2: Any VRSCAW with baffled exhaust 111-1220
    • Map #3: Any Night Rod or Night Rod Special with non-baffled exhaust 111-2020, 111-2040, 111-2010
    • Map #4: Any Night Rod or Night Rod Special with baffled exhaust 111-2220, 111-2240, 111-2210
    • Map #5: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 2.5" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #6: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 2" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #7: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 1.75" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #8: Same as Map #3 but with a leaner mixture for better fuel economy.
    • Map #9: Same as Map #4 but with a leaner mixture for better fuel economy.
    • Map #10: Factory Settings - Switching your Fuel Manager to Map #10 by passes the Fuel Manager.
  3. Fuel Manager for 2012-Current V-Rods 118-1004
    • Map #1: Any VRSCAW with any non-baffled exhaust 111-1040, 111-1020, 111-1010
    • Map #2: Any VRSCAW with baffled exhaust 111-1220
    • Map #3: Any Night Rod or Night Rod Special with non-baffled exhaust 111-2020, 111-2040, 111-2010
    • Map #4: Any Night Rod or Night Rod Special with baffled exhaust 111-2220, 111-2240, 111-2210
    • Map #5: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 2.5" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #6: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 2" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #7: Any VRSCF Muscle exhaust with 1.75" baffle 111-3223, 111-2223
    • Map #8: Same as Map #3 but with a leaner mixture for better fuel economy.
    • Map #9: Same as Map #4 but with a leaner mixture for better fuel economy.
    • Map #10: Factory Settings - Switching your Fuel Manager to Map #10 by passes the Fuel Manager.

Q: Why is my check engine light coming on and not going off?

A: This means that your bike is telling you that you have a trouble code; you can go into
the speedometer and pull the codes out. Below is the procedure of pulling the codes out
of the speedometer.

1. Turn ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2. Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3. Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4. Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu “PSSPt” with the first P flashing.
5. Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module,‘Carbureted’)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = Speedometer
T = Tachometer

6. To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the work “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist
7. Record the codes.
8. If DTC’s are not to be cleared, press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button (longer than 5 seconds) until ‘clear’ comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9. Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10. Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

 Below is the check engine code reference list:

B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM 
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments 
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments 
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments 
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments 
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments 
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM 
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM 
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM 
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM 
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM 
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM 
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM 
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb 
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb 
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI 
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb 
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI 
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI 
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI 
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI 
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI 
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI 
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI 
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI 
P0262 Front Injector High EFI 
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI 
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI 
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb 
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI 
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb 
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI 
P0501 VSS Low Carb 
P0501 VSS Low EFI 
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb 
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI 
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI 
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb 
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI 
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb 
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI 
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb 
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb 
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI 
P0604 RAM Failure Carb 
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb 
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI 
P0607 Converter Error Carb 
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI 
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI 
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI 
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI 
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb 
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI 
P1010 Missing Password Carb 
P1010 Missing Password EFI 
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb 
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI 
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb 
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI 
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI 
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb 
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI 
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb 
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI 
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI 
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI 
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI 
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments 
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM 
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb 
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI 
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments 
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb 
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI 
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM 
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI 
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI 
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments 
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM 
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb 
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI 
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments 
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM 
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb 
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI 
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments 
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM 

----------------------- 
AFR - Air Fuel Ratio 

ATS - Air Temperature Sensor 

BAS - Bank Angle Sensor 

CCM - Cruise Control Module 

CKP - Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an AC signal which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed. Home position established by taking readings off the 22 teeth on the alternator rotor. 

DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Codes


TAB Performance Exhaust

Q: Can I install my TAB Performance exhaust myself?

A: TAB Performance exhaust systems are designed to be installed at home with only a few simple tools and comes with detailed installation instructions.

Q: Do I need a fuel management system, if I'm only getting slip-ons? 

A: Anytime you change the exhaust system on your bike you're changing the back pressure to your engine which in turn affects your Air / Fuel Ratio or A/F causing your bike to run either rich (too much fuel) or lean (not enough fuel). If your bike is carbureted you'll need to rejet your carburetor. This should be done by a professional shop such as your Harley-Davidson Dealership. If your bike is fuel injected you'll need a fuel management system to overide your factory map settings.

Q: My bike has O2 sensors do I still need a fuel management system?

A: If your bike has O2 sensors then it does have some ability to make adjustments, but the factory setup was really only designed to adjust for minor changes such as differences in elevation or air temperature, not for major changes such as aftermarket exhaust. 

Q: What is the difference between baffled and non-baffled?

A: Baffling is the part of the exhaust that provides sound supression (makes the exhaust quieter). To give you a better idea of the differences we've ranked the different options on a 1-10 scale below:

  • Factory Exhaust: 1-2 Sounds more like a moped than a Harley
  • TAB Performance Baffled: 6-7 Gives your bike that deep, rich and throaty sound that makes it sound like a Harley should without being too loud. 
  • TAB Performance Non-Baffled: 9-10 Extremely loud. Only slightly quieter than running straight pipes. 
Q: Are the baffles removable? 

A: The baffles on most TAB Performance exhaust are removable. Unfortunately due to the design requirements on some exhaust the baffles are not able to be removed. Currently all the V-Rod exhaust has non-removable exhaust with the exception of the Muscle exhaust. 

Q: When I go to remove the baffles from my exhaust they only come out a few inches before becoming stuck. What can I do? 

A: Most likely the baffle is getting stuck on the backside of the rivets which hold the TAB Performance name plate on to the pipes. Try drilling the name plate rivets out. If it is still getting stuck it might be a piece of the rivet getting logged between the pipe and the baffle. Try pushing the baffle all the way back in and then tipping it upside down (inlet facing up), then try pulling out the baffle. 

Q: I bought non-baffled pipes and am now looking to quiet down the exhaust. Can I purchase the baffle seperately? 

A: If you purchased a non-baffled pipe unfortunately there is no way to install a baffle into the TAB Performance pipe after the fact. You can however purchase a header baffle that fits in your 3rd volume chamber (where the TAB Performance Pipes slip on), which will give you some sound suppression as well as back pressure. We have had a lot of our customers go with this option. 

Q: Are TAB Performance Pipes street legal? 

A: Although you would need to check with your governing agency to be sure, TAB Performance exhaust system are designed for racing and off-road use only and are not intended for street use.


Shipping

Q: Do you ship to my country? 

A: We ship to countries all around the world. Currently the only countries we can not ship to are U.S. embargoed countries.

Q: How much for shipping costs to my country?

A: This depends on what you are buying and how you would like it shipped. The easiest way to determine shipping costs is to add the items you'd like to purchase to your cart. After you've added the last item look towards the bottom left hand side of the page. There will be a box labled "ESTIMATE SHIPPING AND TAX." Fill out the required fields and click on the  "Get a Quote" button. It will then bring up your different shipping options along with their assoicated costs.

Q: How long will it take to get my order?

A: With very few exceptions we ship all orders placed before 12:00 pm (noon) the same day. If you miss shipping for that day your order will go out the following business day. The time it takes for your order to get from our warehouse to your door step largely depends on which shipping option you choose and in the case of international shipments, your countries customs processing time. You should recieve the tracking information for your order after it ships via email. You can also check the status of your order by going to the Orders and Returns section of our website and filling out your order information.


Warranty

Q: What kind of warranty does TAB Performance Offer?

A: TAB Performance Offers a one (1) year limited liability warranty on all of their products.

All warranties are nontransferable and are limited to or through the original retail purchaser of the product(s) only. "Date of Invoice" for any TAB Performance warranty refers to the date on which the product(s) was purchased by a retail user, dealer or wholesaler. Under no circumstance will any warranty expiration be extended, unless agreed to by TAB Performance in writing. Repair,  replacement or a refund of the purchase price of the product is up to the sole discretion of TAB Performance. TAB Performance is not responsible for incidental or consequential damages. Implied warranties, including those of fitment for a particular purpose and merchantability, are limited in duration to the one (1) year term of this expressed warranty. There are no express or implied warranties beyond those set forth here. TAB Performance reserves the right to investigate all warranty claims.

Blueing and/or discoloration is not covered under warranty, it is a result of improper tuning,cam timing, engine timing, jetting, overheating etc. It is not caused by defective manufacturing. You must call our send us an email to obtain an RMA number and return address before shipping items back. The RMA should be clearly written on the outside of the box.

Q: Ok so my TAB Performance product is outside of the warranty or I don't have the record of when it was purchased. But I have an issue, what do I do?

A: Contact us at support@tabperformance.com. Often times we will be willing to work with you. Unfortunately we have to put up all that legal mumbo jumbo to protect us from faulty claims. 

Factory Warranty

Q: Will installing TAB Performance products void the factory warranty on my bike?

A: Under the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, a U.S. Federal Law enacted in 1975 if something goes wrong with your bike and you take it in for service they cannot flat out deny your claim because of the modifications you've made. Decisions regarding warranty are up to corporate, not your local H-D dealer, and they would have to prove the modified part caused the problem. That being said if you come in with a blown engine and you're running open exhaust with no fuel management system you probably won't have much of a case. 

*Note this is an non-legal interpretation of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, and should be regarded as such. If you have more questions regarding this act it is recommended you review it for yourself or seek legal counsel.